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National Museums Scotland Library Special Collections Robert Riddell Manuscript Collection Volume 8 (SAS
586) A journal
of a tour in Scotland in 1789, made by Captain Grose and Captain Riddell. Transcribed in 2008. [Page 131] A journal of a tour in [ Page 132 ] Tour from Friars Carse to Upon Friday May 15th
set out from Friars Carse along with Captain Grose to In vol. VIIth
of my M:S:S: is a tour to Sanquhar, to which I refer
for a minute account so far when stopped at Boatford,
where Captain Grose made a drawing of the old cross there, reached Drumlanrig where Mr McMurdo paid every attention to
Captain Grose I could wish for who made him a very
fine drawing of the Palace [ Page 133 ] from the garden. Next day
we walked all over the park, when Captain Grose made Mr McMurdo a fine
drawing of Drumlanrig Bridge, and at the same time,
I caused his servant Tom, to make a drawing for me of a picturesque water
fall upon the opposite side of the Nith, from a
walk below the bridge. This cascade, when swelled
by rains is very fine, from the walk on the opposite side of the river. At present,
very little water was in it, but the sketch on the other side will explain it
better than words. [ Page 134 ] [River scene, water-colour
by Tom Cocking ] Upon Sunday morning, at Six
of the Clock, May 17th left Drumlanrig,
and took the road for Lead Hills up the Water of Mennick:
Here we found a good [ Page 135 ] road, made at the expence of Mr Meason’s
Company at Wanlockhead, It is carried
through a most romantick, picturesque, and
beautiful alpine scenery; and I know of no site in the South of Scotland,
that in a fine summer’s day, would give more pleasure to an English traveller
than the ride up the water of Mennick. Reached Leadhills [ Page 136 ] Stirling, uncle to the
present mannanger [ sic ]
of that name; who many years ago sett it on foot - He
when he took charge of the Great Mining Company here, found the miners, the
most idle, drunken, ignorant sett, he had ever seen; But by setting this
library on foot, they are now become a very sober,quiet,
well informed people. Mr Stirling’s house here is considered as the highest
in Scotland, that is inhabited all the year round, the gardens and
plantations are a curiosity in so barren and elevated a country, and the
house, ( a most excellent one,) [ Page 137 ] is an agreeable retreat, to
any of the [ Page 138 ] Sir William Baillie of Laminton, who attempted to defraud her of her estate –
upon which she went to Edinburgh and applied for relief, and assistance, to
Sir Charles Hope, then Lord Advocate for Scotland, who married her, and
obtained a decreet against Sir William Baillie. But such was the miserable
state of Scotland in the reign of Charles II that a warrant was necessary to
be got from the Privy Councell and signed by the
king, addressed to the Duke of Queensberry, as Sheriff of Nithsdale; and the
Earl of Hyndford as [ Page 139 ] Sheriff of Lanarkshire, to
enable them to raise the country in arms, that they might expel Sir William
Baillie from the Castle and estate, and put Margaret Fowlis and her husband
in possession of it, which was done,- and from this
marriage the present Earl of Hopton is descended, whose predecessors have got
such great riches from this seemingly barren spot. I have been told that one
Dr Ross who first discovered the vein to the old Earl of Hopton (grandfather to the present ) was never rewarded for the discovery but died at
Lag Castle in pover
[ Page 140 ] poverty - Left Leadhills about one o’clock, (a very wet day ) and at about ten miles distance saw on the left side
of the road, Roberton Moat as it is called, which
has been an old baronial fortalice. Capt. Grose made a sketch in the chaise
of it from the road. [ Roberton
Moat, pencil-drawing by Francis Grose ] [ Page 141 ] Passed Hardington,
formerly called Begby, a seat of the present Lord
Justice Clerk of Scotland; This place formerly belonged to a family of the
name of Bailie, cadets of the House of Laminton,* the representative of whom is, James Bailie Esqr of Coulters Allers. [* Sir James Dalrymple in his Collections
seems to think that Laminton took its name from Lambinus, whose son James, got a charter from Richard Morville the Constable of Scotland, of the lands of
Loudoun and others in Ayrshire which Charter Sir James Dalrymple saw.] Saw on the left side of the
road Laminton Castle, immortalized from being a
Seat of the great Sir William Wallace of Ellerslie, the Glory of Scotland,
and admiration of Europe; This place he got in right of his wife, who was
herself of Laminton, and here stood a great oak
chair with the W:W: carved upon
it, called Sir Wm Wallace’s chair which is now removed to Boninton
House the Seat of the Lady of this Castle. [ Page 142 ] Laminton has long been the Seat of a family of very old
standing, called Bailie, the last of whom Sir Wm Bailie of Laminton, left an only daughter, the heiress, who married
Mr Dundas of Arniston late Lord President of the
Court of Session in Scotland – She had only a daughter, who married Sir John
Ross Lockhart of Balnagowan, and is the present
proprietor of this ancient baronial seat. Captain Grose made a drawing from
the chaise of this ancient place. [ Page 143 ] Passed Coultar,
there are some good houses, pleasantly situated in a pretty vale highly
improved, and adorned with wood and water. Coultar House is at present rented by Mrs Bertram the
Dowager of Nisbet, and her daughters; a Mr Dixon lives in one adjoining, and
near it is the minister’s house, all forming a picturesque group. [Page 144] The oldest proprietors of Coultar that I know of, were the Wachops,
for Robertus De Walyhop
(or Wachop) swore fealty to Edward the First. This family had a charter of the Lands of Coultar from Alexander IId.
They ended in an heiress who married – Cummin in
whose name it remain’d untill
it came to the Bailies, Cadets of the family of Laminton. The present Proprietor of Coultar House is James Bailie Esq of Coulter allers. Observed up the water, on
the left side of the road to Biggar, Coultar Mains,
the seat of [Page 145] Mr Brown a writer in
Edinburgh. A Number of young plantations embellish
the country, from Coultar to Biggar. Crossed Biggar Moss. Here tradition says that Michael Scott of Balweirie, who was the greatest mathematician of his day,
(and on that account consider’d by his ignorant and
barbarous countrymen, as a warlock, and magician;) He it is said in one night Brigged Biggar Moss,
and made a good road, where before a hare could not pass. Many equally foolish and absurd stories are
handed down by the vulgar of this great and learned man, who lived in the end
of the thirteenth century, a period of grossest ignorance. [ Page 146 ] Arrived at Biggar,* [* for a print of the town
of Biggar, vid: page 269 of this vol.] a burgh of barony, and Regallity, the property of Lord Elfinstone,
and put up at the Earl of Wigtons Arms, a tolerable
good inn kept by Wilson. – The prospect from the room
window pleased me, and I caused Tom make a drawing
of it: It consited
[sic] of the cross, the ruins of the Regallity
prison, and a prospect of the distant countries – after dinner walked out and
took a look of the town. Upon Monday morning May 18h got up at seven and went with Capt. Grose
in the chaise to visit the castle which is seated in a morass below the town
and has been [ Page 146a ] Biggar Cross, water-colour
by Tom Cocking [ Page 147 ] once surrounded by water. This ancient Castle and the
Barony of Biggar formerly belonged to the Fleming family. They were
originally from [ Page 148 ] of This Malcolm Fleming was
made Chamberlain of Scotland by James Vth whose bastard sister Joneta [sic] he had married. He fell at the Battle of
Pinkie in 1547 – his son James Lord Fleming was made Chamberlain of Scotland
by Queen Mary in 1553. In vol fourth page 117 of my mss
is a copy of Queen Mary’s Charter to James Lord Fleming. The family had
estates in [ Page 149 ] of this place. – I have
here made an eye draught of the ground plan of the Castle [ ink sketch of castle] which stands on a swamp, surrounded
by a wet ditch; the house opposite the gate has been built in 1670, and is
the most modern part of the whole, the tower at the end seems very old,as does the pentagonal wall,
and the two round towers, but the drawing of the [ Page 150 ] Castle by Capt. Grose will
explain the building. Upon the front of the
staircase are the arms of the Earl of Leigton,
quartered with that of Primrose, viz. argent, a chevron gules, within the
double tressure of the Scotts arms also gules. That
of Primrose, six primroses, 3 and 3, Supporters two stags. Crest
a stag. Returned to Biggar, and
breakfasted, then we sent for the [ Page 150a ] [ Page 151 ] Here is the Cemetary of the Wigton family in an aile
with a circular end. This church was rebuilt in
its present form by the Fleming family, as an expiation
of some crime by order of the Pope, according to the tradition of the place.
In one end, a small room is fitted up, for the Reception of the Presbitry of Biggar. The Bellman brought for our
inspection an ancient vesel of a kind of Pewther, which in times of popery was used in the service
of the church, and its present use is for bringing the water for Baptism.
Upon the other side is a drawing [ Page 152 ] of this church taken by
Captain Grose from Mr Watson the minister’s window. About 12
, we set out for Opposite to the [ Page 152a ] Church at Biggar, water colour by Francis Grose [ Page 153 ] the remains of a druidical cromlech
which Captain Grose made a slight sketch of in the chaise. [Ink sketch by Francis Grose ] Saw Scotston , formerly the
seat of Mr Telfer, now of Captain McKay. Upon the top of a green hill on the
right side of the road a little way beyond Scotston
is an old Roman or Scottish fortress of which I have made a sketch on [ Page 154 ] the next page [Ink sketch by Robert Riddell ] near this place on upon the
same side of the road, are seats formed on the side of the hill, perhaps
intended as for a kind of rude amphitheatre, by the inhabitants of the
fortress, for the Exhibition of Shows, according to the custom of the Romans.
I have remarked several of these turf seats or benches near Roman works in Passed Romana [ Page 155 ] which formerly belonged to
a family of Romana of that Ilk, and perhaps took its name from the Roman
station in its neighbourhood. It now belongs to a family of the name of
Kennedy, descended from the family of Aughtifardle
near Lismahago. On the opposite side of the
water is Spittal Ha, belonging to Mr Hamilton.
Reached Noble House a good [ Page 156 ] Upon Dalkeith House was formerly
the seat of a branch of the [ Page 157 ] In this house are a number
of portraits
mentioned by Mr Pennant in his first vol. of the tour in Beyond Dalkeith saw
Newbattle, the seat of the Marquis of Lothian, charmingly seated in a hollow
and embellished by wood and water. Here was a Cistercian Abbey
founded by David I in 1140 and in 1591 it was erected into a temporal
lordship in favour of Sir Mark Ker, son of Sir Walter Ker of Cessford. Here is also a very capital
collection of pictures mentioned by Mr Pennant. When at Edinburgh Mr Nasmith showed me a beautiful view of Newbattle he was
executing for Lord Ancrum. [ Page 158 ] Passed Preston Hall, the
seat of Lord Adam Gordon, beyond which is Ormiston belonging to the Earl of
Hopton. Saw Crighton, a well laid out place,
formerly belonging to Mr Pringle, since purchased by Mr Callender,
who has also lately purchased Preston Hall. Reache
Black Shields 14 miles from After dinner set out for Lauder,
passed the house of Fala , now called Hamilton Hall, belonging to Lady Dalrymple
who was heiress of this place. [ Page 159 ] I remember to have heard Mr
Syme tell a droll story of the Ladle of Fala. Lost
our road, and passed an old house called Oxton.
Reached the town of [ Page160 ] Duke of Lauderdale, and
whose arms are over the door, supported by the horn’s
of Plenty , which he might well do, as he boasted,
he had the Command of all the purses in [ Page 161 ] Upon May 28 left Lauder and
travelled along a very dreary country until we came to Earlstone , a finely
situated village upon Leader water. Passed Cowdienows,
immortalized by the fine plaintive tune of the Broom of the Cowdienows. It belongs to Mr Home a professor in the [ Page 162 ] Went to the house of my
friend William Riddell of Laurieston at Friar’s
Bank, from whence is a charming prospect of the fine ruins of the abbey,
which was refounded by King David the first in 1136
for Cistercians brought from Reivaulx in Yorkshire.
Went down to visit the abbey, and purchased a little Book from the Sexton
with an account of the Building to which I refer, as also to an account in vol.VIth Page 20 of my ms collections. Captain Grose made a fine
drawing of the abbey from Mr Riddell’s drawing room at Friars Bank before
dinner. After dinner returned again to the abbey to
examine the fine [ Page 162a ] sculpture. [Engraving of ruins of
Melrose Abbey by Francis Grose ] [ Page 163 ] Next morning I set out from Friars Bank at 6
o’clock, passed Dryburgh Abbey* on our left, finely seated upon the Tweed
also. It was founded by Hugh Morville, Constable of
Scotland in
the time of David the first for monks of the Praemonstatensian
Order; *
Vid: Page 260 of this vol. for a painting accompanied with an account of
Dryburgh Abbey. At the Reformation James VIth granted it to the Mar family, and it
is now the property of the Earl of Buchan; Saw the House of Ancrum on our right hand, finely seated, and surrounded
by large timber. The House seems old, it is the seat of Sir John Scott of Ancrum Bart. A mile further on, upon our left hand passed [ Page 164 ] seat of Admiral Elliot.
Went through the pretty Saw on my left hand the
House of Floors, the seat of the Duke of Roxburgh, near which are the ruins
of the old Royal Castle of Roxburgh so often mentioned in the Border History. The ancient name of this
Castle was Marchidune, or the Hill of Marches; Here
a treaty was concluded between David the First, and Stephen, King of England,
( by Thurstan, archbishop of York) in 1132. [ Page 164a ] [ drawing of ruins of old Roxburgh
Castle] [ Page 165 ] In 1174 when William the
Lion was taken prisoner, [ Page 166 ] It was put into the hands
of Lord H. Percy after the defeat and captivity of David the 2nd
at the Battle of Nevils Cross. But the most
distinguished seige here was that in 1560 which was
fatal to James the 2nd.who here lost his life by the bursting of a
cannon. A large Holly inclosed with a wall, marks
the spot where he fell. His Queen, Mary of Guelders carried on the attack, took and demolished the Castle. A few fragments of walls
are now all that exist of this once mighty fortress which had been also
defended by a [ Page 167 ] great foss. The Southside impends over the water of Tiviot, some of whose waters have been diverted in former
times into the foss. Arrived at Kelso, a burgh
of barony the property of the Duke of Roxburgh, drove to the Cross Keys Inn,
a good house built by Mr Dixon who also built the fine villa here which he
called Havanna house .
Went to visit the remains of the abbey here, founded by David the first in
1120 for Tyrocensian [sic] monks. Its abbot had a
mitre and pontifical robes, was exempt from Episcopal Jurisdiction, and had a
place at all General Councils [ Page 168 ] Councells, at the Reformation. It was granted by James the 6th
in 1605 to Sir Robert Ker of Cessford upon the
forfeiture of the Earl of Bothwell and it now belongs to the Duke of
Roxburgh. From the abbey went to visit
Havanna House, a most compleat
elegant seat built, built by a Mr Dixon a native of Kelso – after his death
it was purchased by a Nabob, one Mr Cuthbert who is also dead
: the house is kept in good order, from the shrubbery behind, is one
of the finest prospects I ever saw. It [ Page 168a ] Illustration of [ Page 169 ] is now called Ednam House. Left Kelso after dinner in a shower of rain
and reached Jedburgh, a royal burgh finely seated on a fine inland river.
Here is the remains of a religious house, which I
had not time to examine. Upon Sunday morning, May 31st set out for
Hawick. Saw a house finely situated
above the town, I forget to whom it belongs, passed Mount Tiviot
again this morning; came in sight of Minto Craig, upon which is a square tower,
formerly the seat of the Stewart family, then of the Riddell’s, and [ Page 170 ] at present of the Elliots. In the genealogy of the Riddell family is a
drawing of [ Page 170a ] The Rock of Minto, black
and white illustration by Francis Grose. [ Page 171 ] perhaps the oldest banner,
or pennon, now to be seen in Near this place, saw the
most beautiful village I ever saw in [ Page 172 ] After dinner, left Hawick,
passed Langlands prittely
[sic] situated in a Hollow. Saw the old [ Page 173 ] Horses - This place was
formerly the station where one of the monks of Melrose stopped upon St Pauls
Day, when on his way to Nithsdale to collect the Abbey rents,and
here all the People in the neighbourhood waited for his coming, to hear mass,
to be married, and have their children baptised, after which a fair was held,
and because it was always on St Pauls day, the place obtained the name of
Mass Paul’s Green. The name by which the Monk went by here was Buikabreast from his carrying the Mass book [ Page 174 ] in his breast. The road from Mass Paul’s
Green to Langholm is very good, tho’ the country is
very wild. Reached Langholm late at night, here is a good inn. Next morning
at six, set out for Annan. Passed Broomholm, the
house of a Mr Maxwell, finely situated. Saw Springkell , the seat of
Sir Wm Maxwell, who has improved the country round by his plantations, the
soil here is cold and wet, but, draining and lime has much mended it. [ Page 175 ] Observed near Springkell the old tower of Blacket,
now a ruin. Passed a neat Box at Langham, built by a Captain Smith, near
which saw the tower at Woodhouse, and Bonshaw, the seat of the [ Page 176 ] Left Annan, passed Kelhead, the seat of a branch of the Queensberry family,
now represented by Sir Charles Douglas a minor. Saw the [ Page 176a ] [ Page 177 ] Comlongan is now the seat of the Lord Viscount Stormont. Saw
in ruins the old [ Page 178 ] Reached [ Page 179 ] Upon [ Page 180 ] who succeeded him, sold it to
Mr Thomas Gordon of the Earlston family, ( and
father to the present laird ) who finished the house. He married Miss
McCulloch daughter to the money making Laird of Basholme. This old lady at present lives at Kelton House.
The evening was very wet, so only walked through the gardens which are well
laid out. Observed a machine by which the spit is turned, and the churn
churned, by a water wheel and a crank. June 19th, next
morning after breakfast, set out to visit the old [ Page 181 ] habitation of Mr Gordon’s
mother, old Lady Greenlaw. Here we got a guide who
conducted the chaise cross the Dee, to the island on which the castle stands,
which seems to contain about 20 acres of ground or thereby. The Castle
consists of a very large and strong square tower built of rubble stone
strongly cemented with lime; and surrounded by a wall, flanked with round towers and perforated with loopholes, for the discharge of
firearms; the fate of this outer wall has been secured by a drawbridge. [ Page 182 ] The inside of the Castle is
strongly vaulted, but now very ruinous, and filled with Jackdaws nests.This place was one of the
fastnesses or strongholds of the ancient Princes or Regulii
of Galloway who were totally independent of the Scottish Kings. When that
ancient line ended in Alan, last Lord of Galloway, this place fell into the
hands of the Balliol, the Cummyng, and the Douglas family’s as they succeeded each other in the Lordship of
Galloway [ Page 183 ] and the Earls of Douglas,
when Lords of Galloway, built the present Castle as it now stands, in the
beginning of he fifteenth century. In the year 1455 the Lordship of Galloway
was annexed to the Scottish Crown, upon the ruin of of
the Earls of Douglas, after which, this castle was often set in tack by the
Kings of Scotland, along with the office of Stewart of Galloway. In 1502 it
was set in tack for nine years to John Dunbar of Mochrum,
for one hundred pounds a year. [ Page 184 ] and in 1524, it was granted
to the Lord Maxwell, in which family it continued until the year 1746, when
Government purchased the office of Stewart from the Nithsdalr
family, since which they sold the Castle Grange, which now makes the Estate
of Kelton the property of the late Mr Gibson, and on the other side of the
Dee is Thrieve Grange , belonging to a brother of
Mr Gordon of Greenlaw, also part of the Castle Grange. Captain Grose made two drawings of the Castle, [ Page 185 ] after which we returned to Carlinwark, where we baited our horses; Here is a lough
filled with Marle, which is fished up by the help
of boats, and a canal carries it to the River of Dee, which is navigable 20
miles up the countrie so that this Marle can be rendered of very general use.Mr Gordon shewed me a Roman Sword found in this
Lough. Set out from Carlinwark to visit the Moat of Urr,
a remarkable artificial Mount upon the West side of the water of Urr near the church of that name [ Page 186 ] This singular antiquity was
the ancient seat of Judicature, and the spot from whence the Ancient Princes,
or Regulii of Galloway, promulgated their laws, at
stated periods, to their vassals and followers, and here their Doomsters tryd Capital offences by Jury, agreeable to the auld laws
of Galloway. In the The Governor, attended by
the Doomsters of the Island, [ Page 187 ] and the other inferior judges,
reads over all the Civil & Criminal law to the People and takes them
bound to obey the same. This old celtick custom custom continued
longer in [ Page 188 ] of the Judges of Galloway, as
separate and independent of the other Judges of Scotland. I don’t know of any
other, now to be seen in Scotland similar to this
one, as it is probable that this ancient Celtick
Custom fell into total disuse in Scotland, when Malcolm Canmore abolished the
Dignity of Thane for that of Earl, and moddeled our
constitution, more like to that of England and France. Captain Grose made
several drawings of this remarkable antiquity [ Page 188a ] Black and white drawing of Buittle Castle [ Page 189 ] Went to visit Bootle [sic]
Castle, a hunting seat of John Baliol, sometime King of Scotland. Here it is
probable was formerly a fortress of the old Lords of Galloway, to which
Baliol is said to have often repaired to. It is now a compleat
ruin, and nothing but the mount it stood upon, the foundations of walls, and
the remains of the drawwell remains, to inform the
traveller here stood a proud Castle. An old unroffed
Square Tower has been built with the stones of the older Castle [ Page 190 ] I carried Captain Grose to
the House of George Maxwell of Muncheus Esqr. Where we staid all night – He was much pleased with
the alpine scenery. He saw round Muncheus House. Next day, after breakfast
we left Mr Maxwell and dined at Hollance the Seat
of Wm Copland of Collieston Esqr
where we spent the evening and the next day returned by the same road we came to Friars Carse. [ Page 191 ] Upon [ Page 192 ] Arrived in *
For a print of the old cross at When Captain Grose and I
set out, we passed the raceground, and saw on our
righthand upon a cliff, the [ Page 193 ] which with great majesty
stands like a pillar in the sea,and
is singularly picturesque. In Pennant’s Tour is a print of this rock. Passed
the old unroofed house of Dunduff, now the property
of Sir John Whitford’s second son; Came to the old Churchyard of Kirkbride, (
now no more a parish ) , but annexed to the Parish of Maybole; Here is the
ruins of the church, and Pedestal of a crop, the whole is well enclosed, and
the gate locked, In the church yard saw some very grotesque figures on some
tombstones which Captain Grose made drawings of. [ Page 194 ] Reached the Castle of
Dunoon, most romantickly seated on a Rock that
overhangs the Sea, This has been a Place of great extent ,
and strength, before the use of Field Artillery, and was the ancient seat of
the Earls of Cassils* * The surname of Kennedy ( says Sir James Dalrymple in his Historical collections )
came from a christened name viz Kenede. For he found in a charter to the Nuns of North
Berwick, granted by Nicolaus , the son of Duncan,
first Earl of Carrick; a witness of the name of Murchau
Mack Kenede. This Charter was about the year 1200.For
Gilbert, Lord of From it is a fine prospect
of the Hills in Went down upon the sea
beach below the castle, which looks from this point of view very grand and
lofty, observes a Cave [ Page 194a ] Black
and white drawing of Castle by Grose [ Page 194b ] Black
and white drawing of Castle and view of [ Page 195 ] much
filled up, which I dare say was once a sallyport from the Castle to the Sea. Captain
Grose made 3 drawings of this Castle, which has long been the Property of Mr Kennedy
of Dunoon. In vol VI of this ms.collection page 268 is a Print of the hills of Lamlash
in Captain
Kennedy of Dunjarg informed me, that John Earl of Cassils, grandfather to the present Earl, sold Dunoon to
the predecessor of
John Kennedy of Dunoon,Esqr, the present Laird, he
died about 1603. The Earl of Rutherglen of the Hamilton family was tutor
dative to John Earl of Cassils at the time of the sale. [ Page 196 ] Reached
Cullzean, the favourite seat of the present Earl of
Cassils, who laid out an immense sum here, and has
made this Place the
Alnwick of Scotland. In vol. VI of this ms.
Collection is a Print of the old castle, which has been taken away to give
place to this most superb castellated mansion, the design of Mr Robert Adams.
Captain Grose made a good drawing of this fine place, which he means to
engrave, and his servant Tom made the drawing here inserted of the farm
office houses. [ Page 197 ] [Water-colour
of farmstead at Culzean by Tom Cocking]. Here
is a picture of Sir Thomas Kennedy of Cullzean,
drawn in 1512, who was a son of the Earl of Cassils,
and the first of this branch of the family, who succeeded to the Earldom in
1760. This Sir Thomas Kennedy was murdered by the More’s
of Auchindrain, who fled to Ireland, and being
pursued by his Sons, was discovered there and slain
in retaliation, when they brought his heart to Culzean. [ Page 198 ] Left
Culzean and went to Maybole, where Captain Kennedy
of Dungarg Dined with us, he gave me much
information, and a copy of the Charter of Erection of Maybole into a Burgh of
Barony, which is copied in vol. IV Page 198 of my MS Collections .
Maybole is a Burgh of Barony and Regallity, the
date of the Charter of Erection is 1516 to Gilbert, Earl of Cassils. At
the lower end of the town stands the castle, now inhabited by Captain Kennedy
of Dungarg his Lordship’s [ Page 198a] Black
and white drawing of old ruined church “ the Colledge” by F. Grose. [ Page 199 ] factor,
tradition says that in this House, the Lady of the Earl of Casills, who went off with John Faa,
the Leader of the Gipsies, was afterwards confined until she died. At
the upper end of the Town is the Tollbooth, with a steeple and clock; the
chief antiquity here is the old ruined church,
called the Colledge, which is now, and has long
been the Cemetary of the Cassils
family. In the Charter of Erection of this burgh formerly mentioned, mention
is made of the Vicar and Prebends of the Colledge
Kirk of Maybole. [ Page 200 ] Captain
Grose made a drawing of this ancient church. Next
morning set out for to visit Dalquharran, the seat
of Mr Kennedy of Dunoore. Passed Kilhinnie belonging to Sir Adam Fergusson of Kilkerran Bart . Ascended a
hill, when I saw Kilkerran the seat of Sir Adam
Fergusson surrounded by thriving plantations. It stands in a Bottom, through
which the Water of Girvan runns. Reached Drumillan
a neat Box on the roadside belonging Capt. Kennedy of Drumillan.
Reached the new house [ Page 201 ] of
Dalquharran , a most Elegant Pile of Building in the Gothick taste, planned by Mr Robert Adams. The Dining
Room, and a Library are each a compleat circle. In
short, this house when finished will honour to the taste of the owner, &
the architect. Capt. Grose made a near drawing of this elegant house, which
is seated on a fine wooded Bank, overhanging the water of Girvan, and has
every advantage that wood and water can afford it. Went
to visit the old house which stands on the very brink of the River. [ Page 202 ] Here
is a square Tower or Fortalice, to which has since been added a modern house.
It is surrounded by the Garden and Court, before
which are some fine trees. Capt. Grose went into the Garden to make a drawing
of the tower, when I went to look
at the house, attended by Mr Kennedy’s Land Steward. He
took me first into the Drawing Room, where I saw some good portraits
, viz General James Kennedy, uncle to the present Laird; also Baron Kennedy,
and his lady, brother to the General; an another brother in Mr Kennedy’s
bedroom [ Page 202a ] Black
and white illustration of the Old House at Dalquharran
by F. Grose [ Page 203 ] is
a picture of Sir William Wallace , I observed over
the chimney in this room, a singular carving of a hound and hare. In the Dining
Room is a picture of Colonel Wm Kennedy, freeman of Fortgeorge
and [Page 204 ] Left
Dalquharran, where the utmost attention was paid to
us by Mr Kennedy’s land steward, he had a dinner provided ,
and in his Master’s name pressed us to wine, and beds , if we chose to stay.
Passed the [ Page 204a ] View
of Dalquharran, water colour by Tom Cocking after
Francis Grose [ Page 205 ] drawing
of this uncommonly fine prospect, of which I have here a Copy by his manservant
Thomas Cocking. Passes
near Kilkerran House and returned to Maybole to
dinner. Captain Kennedy of Dunfarg dined with us and in the evening we supped with him at
the [ Page 206 ] This
abby was founded by Duncan first Earl of Carrick,
soon after that Earldom was disjoined from the Great Lordship of Galloway,
about the year 1244 for monks of the Cluniacenses
order, so called from the abby of Cluny in
Burgundy. At the Reformation it continued in the hands of the Crown, who left
it in tack to
Sir Adam Fergusson of Kilkerran Bart. On
our way to Corseregal ( Crossraguel ), we passed a large unroofed square tower
called Baltarson.
Reached the abbey, which I found of a very singular construction. The
church has consisted of one long [ Page 207 ] aisle
divided across the middle by a wall with a pointed top. On which is a belfry for
2 bells; The office houses of this abbey are more entire than any I have seen
in Scotland, from the top of the Gatehouse Tower , which is very entire, I made
a birdeye sketch of the ground plan of the whole
abbey and all its appendages now to be seen. I just entered the Porter’s lodge, on one
side of the principal entry, within which, was an outer court of offices, in
one corner stands the Pidgeon house very entire. From this apparently outer
court, I [ Page 208 ] next
went into a Square, the area of which is now a Cale yard, one side of it is
formed by the church, a second by the chapterhouse, a beautiful room, the
fine roof of which is supported by a single pillar, round the sides are stone
benches, and two elegant Gothick windows, richly
ornamented, light it. The other two sides of this square Court are now in
Ruins, only the lower vaults are now to be seen. Came next to an other enclosure, on one
corner of which stands the large square Tower, formerly the residence of the
abbot. [ Page 209 ] This
place seems to have been a [ Page 210 ] Went
into the Eastern division of the church, a vaulted room, under the same roof
with the chapter house, communicates with this part of the church, the East
end is circular, and on one side of the place where I suppose the high altar
formerly stood, is a nitch for the Holy Water.
Captain Grose made several drawings of the Abbey and I have here given
drawings of the most curious of the ornaments in the Chapter house, and other
room under the same roof that communicated with the [ Page 210a ] Drawings
of sculptured bosses. Wash drawing by Robert Riddell. [ Page 211 ] Quire
or Eastern End of the abbey church. It is a great pity that an accurate grand
plan of the whole, was not made out, in geometrical proportion, and the
tombs, and curious ornaments engraved, before they fall entirely to ruin. Mr Hetzen’s print, ( tho’
very stiff) gives a just idea of many parts then entire, but now no more.
Returned to Maybole, and repassed [ Page 212 ] About
a mile from Maybole, passed Machermore, a neat snug
situation. Arrived at the House of Cassillis , a huge square Tower surrounded with wood, and watered
by the [ Page 213 ] The
portraits in this room are, Lord Belhaven, who made the great figure in the
union Parliament. Lord Rutherglen, Lord Dare, brother to the late Lady Cassillis, A
Duchess of Hamilton and her sister. Next to the Drawing room is a Bedroom, in
which are the portraits of Lord and Lady Cassillis
in the same picture, the dress of both singular, Lord March, now Duke of
Queensberry, Mr David Kennedy and his Lady, of the Culzean
family. Two portraits of Ladies, I could not learn who they were, by the gold
keys in their girdles, they seem to have been Lady’s
of the Bedchamber, The Late Duke of Hamilton. Over the chimney [ Page 214 ] is
a picture of St Marks Palace at [ Page 215 ] painted
in oyl, the horses and drivers are likenesses, this
is a very curious picture. An
Earl of Selkirk, Mary Magdalane, Mary, Queen of Scotts, seems to be done by Sir John Medina’s son, who
made a trade of painting pictures of Queen Mary. A
Sea pice, the late Thomas, Earl of Cassilis, over
the chimney is a Diana, a Miss Lockhart of Carnwath,
and a fine old picture of one of the family. In another room is Lady
Cassilis, a Miss Hutchinson, Calvin draped in black with a book in his hand,
a morose sourish looking fellow, and Lord Forbes. [ Page 216 ] The
walls of this old Castle are very thick, at the third floor they measured
sixteen feet thick, allowing for the bevel of the windows. Opposite
the gate is a fine old spreading tree, and a number of
old trees are scattered round about, besides a great quantity of young wood. Left this venerable mansion,
and rode through a good country which improves the nearer we approach [ Page 217 ] Earl of Cassilis, passed Rozell, the House
of the Countess of Crawford. Reached After
Dinner, left Ayr, rode over sandy ground, until we reached the house of Mr
Dalrymple of Orangefield, surrounded by good hedges, and thriving
plantations, beyond which is Rosemount, the Seat of Dr Fullarton, his land
seems highly improved, and upon the opposite side of the road from his house
saw his farm offices, I am told at present he has 500 acres of his land, in
his own hand, what he has let brings him in £1:5 per acre [ Page 218 ] but
I was told he was offered £ 1=8= for some he keeps in his own hand. His land
on the roadside seems in good condition. Half a mile on the right hand from
the road, saw the Farther
on upon the left, saw the Houses of the Laird of Fairly, and Sir Wm
Cunningham of Carrington Bart. Here the country much improves, until I
reached [ Page 219 ] are
the descendants of Robert, the son of Simon, who was the third son of Alan,
the second Lord High Steward of [ Page 220 ] Near
the Town is the Dean Castle, the family seat formerly of the Earls of
Kilmarnock. Next morning [ Page 220a ] Black
and white illustration of Dean Castle by F.Grose. [ Page 221 ] In
this Castle, was the Lady Margaret, Sister to James the Third, King of
Scotland, and wife to Thomas Lord Boyd. Confined, untill
by an arbitrary act of the King her Brother, she was
devorsed from her beloved husband, to marry James,
Lord Hamilton, then created Earl of Arran. Left
this once [ Page 222 ] Reached
the village of Stewarton, near which is the Seat of the Great Glasgow Tobacco
Merchant Mr Cunningham, who is here building a town house for Justice Courts,
and a Tolbooth. Dined at a tolerable good inn. After dinner sett out and passed Corshill,
now the property of Lord Lisle, the last inhabitant of this place was Sir
David Cunningham, grandfather to the present noble proprietor. From this
place. on the right hand, saw Robertland, the Seat
of Sir Wm Cunningham of Livingstone Bart. Who lately sold it to Sir James
Hunter Blair. Captain Grose made a drawing of the
Ruins at Corschill. Passed Dunlop House finely
wooded, and seated [ Page 223 ] in
a Hollow. Soon after the country turns wild and hilly, until we reached
Neilston, a beautiful village, beyond which the country becomes finely
cultivated. Saw the House of Hawkhead , now the seat of the Earl of Glasgow. This place was
formerly the Seat of the Lords Ross, who were descendants of the Great Earls
of Ross. They ended in an Heiress who married John Ross McKie,Esqr. of Dalnagowan
in Reached
[ Page 224 ] abby
founded by Walter, the son of Alan, Dapifer Regis Scotiae,
in 1160, first for Cluniacs who were afterwards
changed for Cistercians, and then for Cluniacs
again. The name of the old abby church remains, and
some arches of the cross aisles, on which I observed the Stewards arms. This
church is now undergoing a most compleat repair,
which I think is executed with taste, and when finished will be the
Handsomest gothick church in [ Page 225 ] the
old abby garden wall still
remains, a very expensive one of Cut stone by an inscription it was
built by George Shaw abbot, in 1484. The monks of this house wrote a Scotch Chronicle,
called The Blackbook of Paisley, and I believe the
chartulary is still to be met with, brought down to the year 1548. John
Hamilton, the last abbot, was natural brother to the Duke of Hamilton, and in
1546 resigned it into the hands of Lord Claud Hamilton, 3rd son of
that Duke. The descendant of this temporal abbot, is
the Earl of Abercorn, who has had here lately built a very fine [ Page 226 ] Passed
Crooxton Castle, the ancient Seat of the Earls of Lennox.
In vol. III Page 179 of my M.S. Collections is a print of this castle
accompanied with some account of it. And in Vol. VI Page 14th of
the same M.S. is another print accompanied
with an account of Near
it is Longside, where Queen Mary lost the [ Page 227 ] Page
23rd of my M.S. Collections is a print, accompanied with an
account of this ancient Castle. As also at Page 98 of the same Vol. and in
Vol. VI, Page 10th of the same M.S. Collections is another of the
same to all of which I refer. Crossed
[ Page 228 ] Reached
The
ancient name of this Place was, Cadzow, it was granted
to the ancestor of the Duke of Hamilton on the following occasion. In the
reign of Edward II, King of England, lived a Sir Gilbert de Hamilton or
Hampton, a Leicestershire Knight, who was happning
at the English Court,
to praise Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, he was insulted by John de Spencer,
Chamberlain of England, whom he slew, and fled to Scotland, where Bruce
received him with open arms, and gave him this place in 1445. The Lands were
erected into a Lordship for the then owner Sir James called Lord Hamilton [ Page 228a ] [ Page 229 ] as
the Duke and Duchess were not returned from Edinburgh Races
I had an opportunity of examining the Picture gallery. As Mr Pennant has so
fully and I think ably described the Collection of Pictures here, I shall
only take notice of Mary Queen of Scotts, an
original sent by that unfortunate Queen, a little before her execution, to this
family. It is dated 1586 aet. 43 . I have a copy,
taken from her picture at [ Page 230 ] The
only original Pictures I know of, of Queen Mary, are, the one painted by Zuccharo in the possession of J. Hodges Esqr. The one that formerly belonged to Dr Mead. The one
at Allowa House, belonging to Mr Erskine of Marr.
The one at Castle Braan and the one at Hamilton.
For I am told the one in the French king’s Collection is now spoiled, and the
one she gave to Lord Herries is lost or
destroyed. The picture at the Trinity
House at I
caused Tom make a drawing of the old front of [ Page 231 ] The
fine park behind the house ( I was told ) , was let
into the very door, on a lease of 19 years to an Edinburgh Butcher for £1.3
per acre. Next morning sett out for Edinburgh.
Passed the Palace and saw the whimsical building af
Chatelherault. Crossed the [ Page 232 ] Here
I saw the Dukes of Hamilton and Argyle, the Marquis of Lorn,
coming from Edinburgh Races. Set out
and dined at Mid-Calder, from whence sett out after
dinner, passed Hatton, the Seat of Lord Lauderdale and reached Edinburgh. Mr
Allan the Painter then shewed me two historical pictures of his composition.
The one Mary Queen of Last updated: February 2023 |